Walter Spies: Art legend and his lasting influence on Bali

Walter Spies: Art legend and his lasting influence on Bali

On October 16, 2025, a group of travelers experienced their ninth day in Bali, perfectly planned with a mix of cultural discoveries and nature experiences. The day began at 10 a.m. with a drive to Ubud, the cultural heart of the island. The first destination was the house of Walter Spies, an important German artist who moved to Ubud in 1927. Walter Spies left a lasting impression on the art scene in Bali and influenced painting in Indonesia to this day. The former residential building is now part of a hotel complex and is rented out. A hotel employee explained to the visitors the former use of the house and gave interesting insights into the artist's life and work.

The next stop was the famous rice terraces, which are not only a popular photo opportunity but also offer various on-site activities. Tourists could choose between zip-lining and trekking and opted for a hike through the stunning rice fields. Traffic in Bali often proved snarled, which made arriving at the Arma Art Museum a welcome relief. Works by Walter Spies were exhibited here, and a documentary gave a deep insight into the local art scene. The museum grounds were designed like a large garden and served as a harmonious backdrop for artistic reflection on Bali.

Influence of Walter Spies

The exhibition “ROOTS: One Hundred Years of Walter Spies in Bali,” which ran from May 24 to June 14, 2025 at the ARMA Museum in Ubud, highlights the artist’s cultural legacy and his influence on Balinese culture. This exhibition, curated by Michael Schindhelm, combines archival research with contemporary artworks and shows the discrepancy between Spies' romanticized view of Bali and post-colonial reality. One of the central elements is the Villa Iseh, which Walter Spies built in Karangasem in 1937, which also became a retreat for cultural icons such as Yoko Ono and David Bowie.

Walter Spies, born in Moscow in 1895, was not only a painter, but also a musician and ethnographer. He was a co-founder of the Pita Maha artist group and was actively involved in the institutionalization of Balinese art. His far-reaching influence on the art scene is still visible today and was also recognized in the exhibition. In addition, new works by Balinese artists such as Made Bayak and Gus Dark were presented, which illustrate the connection between tradition and contemporary practice. The support programs and film screenings offered during the exhibition concluded the event with a student awards ceremony on the final day.

Underwater experiences on Gili Trawangan

After an eventful day in Ubud, it was time for the penultimate day before departure, which began at 6:15 a.m. with pickup from the hotel. The trip led to Padang Bai port, from where the Gili Islands and Lombok can be reached. Arriving on Gili Trawangan, a car-free island, was a very special experience as transportation here is limited to electric scooters and bicycles. The travelers decided to walk to the beach and rent a snorkel mask to explore the fascinating underwater world.

Although access to deeper water was somewhat difficult due to rocks and dead coral, the snorkeling trips experienced were rewarded with breathtaking sightings of colorful fish and turtles swimming close to the shore. After exploring the waters, the travelers took a bike ride around the island, which was completed in under an hour. The ferry ride back was rocky and offered one last opportunity to enjoy the seascapes before heading back to Bali. Despite some challenges, the memories of these experiences remained consistently positive.